History of Faro: a brief summary
Faro, the capital of the Algarve, is more than a gateway to beaches and sunshine. It is a city layered with centuries of history. From Roman foundations and Moorish rule to pirate attacks and royal reconquests, Faro has played a central role in shaping southern Portugal. This article takes you through the key chapters of the history of Faro and shows how the past still echoes through its streets, churches, and city walls.
In Roman times: the town of Ossonoba
The history of Faro begins long before modern times, thanks to its beautiful location beside the Ria Formosa lagoon. This natural haven attracted settlers even in prehistory. But it was the Romans who first turned it into a proper town, calling it Ossonoba. They built strong city walls, laid out streets, and filled the town center with important buildings like a forum, temples, and public baths, all in what we now call Faro’s old town.
As Ossonoba grew, new neighborhoods popped up outside the walls, filled with elegant Roman houses. One of the best places to see this past today is at Milreu, just 9 km north of Faro, where you can visit the impressive ruins of a Roman villa, complete with mosaics and ancient architecture that bring history to life.
Capital of the Moorish kingdom
By the 4th century, Faro had become an important religious center, serving as the seat of a bishop. Even when the Visigoths, a Germanic people, took over in the 5th century, Faro kept its status. But big changes came in the 8th century, when the Moors arrived from North Africa and began their long occupation of the region.
The Moors controlled Faro for nearly 500 years, strengthening the city walls and leaving a lasting cultural impact. Toward the end of this period, Faro became the capital of a small independent Moorish kingdom. It was ruled by the Harun family, whose name is believed to have inspired the city’s modern name, Faro.
Old documents refer to the city by various names: the Roman Ossonoba, the Arabic ʼUḫšūnubaḧ (أخشونبة), and Santa Maria de Hárune in Christian texts. The well-known Arab geographer Al-Idrisi described Faro in the 12th century as:
“The town is built near the ocean and its walls are washed by the ocean at high tide. It is a town of a reasonable size and nice outlook. It has a main mosque, a secondary mosque and an oratory”.
While he focused on religious sites, his account shows how developed and admired the city was during Moorish times.
The Christian Reconquest of Faro
In 1249, King Afonso III of Portugal captured Faro and brought it under Portuguese rule. According to historical records, the city was protected by strong stone walls and large wooden doors. To break through, Portuguese forces piled wood at the main entrance and set it on fire. Once the gates burned down, Portuguese soldiers stormed into the city and took control.
After the conquest, the main mosque in Faro was turned into a Christian church, later known as Santa Maria Church (today’s cathedral in the old town). Despite the takeover, many Moorish residents (referred to at the time as Mouros Forros) were allowed to stay. They kept their homes and continued their work in farming, trade, and crafts.
At the time, the city was divided into quarters. The most important part of the town, the inner town, was surrounded by the city wall and inhabited only by the ruling Christians. Just outside the inner town were the Moorish quarter and Jewish quarter (situated where the shopping streets are now). Interestingly, the first book ever printed in Portugal came from a Jewish printing house in Faro, a remarkable detail in the city’s cultural history.
Faro in the 16th to 18th century
In 1577, Faro regained its status as a bishop’s seat, and the Church of Santa Maria officially became the cathedral. Around this time, some of the city’s most beautiful buildings were constructed, such as the Convent of Nossa Senhora da Assunção (now home to the municipal museum) and the Bishop’s Palace.
But the calm period in Faro didn’t last. In 1596, while Portugal was under Spanish rule, the town was attacked by an English army of about 3.000 soldiers led by the Earl of Essex. They burned parts of the city and looted the bishop’s library. Many of these valuable books were taken to England and are still held in the Bodleian Library at Oxford University. Among them was the first book ever printed in Portugal, a Torah in Hebrew, printed by Samuel Gacon in Faro.
In the 17th century, Faro expanded further. New religious buildings were built, and a new city wall, the Cerca Seiscentista, was constructed to protect the town during the Portuguese Restoration War (1640–1668). Parts of this historic wall are still standing today.
The 18th century was a period of economic wealth in the history of Faro, thanks in large part to the gold arriving from Brazil. This prosperity is still visible in the ornate baroque churches like Carmo Church and São Francisco Church. They are both decorated with gilded wood carvings and traditional glazed tiles, hallmarks of Portuguese baroque art.
Earthquake of 1755
In 1755, a powerful earthquake struck the Algarve and caused major damage across the region. Faro was also hit, but thanks to the protective sandbanks of the Ria Formosa lagoon, the destruction here was not as severe as in other towns. Still, many buildings were ruined.
After the earthquake, the capital of the Algarve was moved from Lagos to Faro. This marked an important moment in the history of Faro. The disaster also opened the door for a major rebuilding effort, much of it done in the neoclassical style. One of the key figures behind this transformation was Bishop Francisco Gomes de Avelar, who used the wealth of the Church to restore important landmarks.
With the help of Italian architect Francisco Fabri, several buildings were rebuilt. Examples are the seminary in front of the cathedral and the Misericórdia Hospital near the city gate. These elegant structures are still standing today and give Faro much of its historic charm.
What to see today: discover the historical landmarks of Faro
As you explore the city, you will find traces of Roman foundations, Moorish influence, and dramatic episodes from Portugal’s history. Here are a few historical highlights you won’t want to miss:
- Faro cathedral (Sé de Faro) – a beautiful Gothic church in the old town with sweeping views from the bell tower.
- Arco da Vila – an impressive 19th-century gateway that marks the entrance to Faro’s historic center.
- Municipal museum – housed in a former convent, this museum features Roman mosaics and religious art.
- Bishop’s palace – an elegant 18th-century building where Faro’s bishops once lived, next to the cathedral.
- City walls – remnants of medieval and Moorish walls that once protected the old town.
- Jewish quarter – a historic area near today’s shopping streets, once home to Faro’s Jewish community.
- Misericórdia hospital – a restored neoclassical hospital building near the city gate, built after the 1755 earthquake.